Buy Monroe 171293 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly

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List Price: $236.66
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For DIY, the extra cost for a full assembly is well worth the money. The rear struts were so much easier to install than the front ones. Maybe I should have started by installing the rear ones in order to build on my confidence level. The ride is so much quieter and more comfortable now after the wheel alignment.

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these were very easy to install as they are all in one assembly will buy a set for the replacement on the front soon

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Local shops wanted about $300 per strut (with labor) to do the work ($1200 total). I did the whole car myself for about $500 in parts and maybe 3-4 hours of work. (I had to by jack stands too... about $30). Well worth it. It was not difficult. 16 year old car and the ride is solid and unbouncy now. I'm hoping these struts hold up. Included instructions were minimal, but you don't need too much more. Check the internet for videos and walk-thrus. Top bolt patterns can only go in one way, so try to get that orientation corrected on the new part before you put the strut up into the wheel well to install it. (Compare it to the removed part and some of the "Front" markings on the top mount.)

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I bought a set of 4 for my daughter's 1997 Maxima which had 95k miles. That is not a lot of miles for strutes, but the back shock was leaking and would bang when you hit a PA pothole. I watched a few youtube videos and was able to change the 2 back struts in under 60 minutes. The front struts were also very easy, EXCEPT to reattach the spring clip that holds the brake line to the strut. There is no way to apply any leverage and it took me almost 30 minutes for each little spring clip. Total time for the front was about 2 hours due to the spring clip problems. Use a long pipe (about 2-3 feet) on your sockets to brake the bolts free. Let some WD-40 soak the dirt away for a few minutes. I measured the height of the wheel arch before and after and the results were definitely higher. The back was raised by 1/4" and the front was raised by a full 1". The car is looking a little funny, but I am hoping it sinks a little over time. It has been 2 weeks since installed and the ride height is the same. The ride quality is like night and day, almost like riding in my Lexus (almost wink wink). My daughter took it for a ride and was waiting for a bad section of the road to see how the new struts improved the ride quality, when she realized she was already past it. She did not even notice the bumps. I highly recommend this upgrade if you have an older car with weak struts. It is like a new car. Installation is very easy (youtube is your friend) and the total cost was about $500 for entire car. Good luck with your project.

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I installed this great product on a 1997 Nissan Maxima. Customer support at Monroe is awesome, as one of the studs on the top mount broke, and I had to get a replacement. Be confident and buy this well engineered and quality product from Monroe -they will serve you well. Rememeber the torque setting for the rear strut's upper mount is approximately half that of the front strut. For a 1997 Nissan maxima, the Front strut's top mount torque specification is 35FT_LB, and for the rear it is only 18FT_LB. It is very important that you check the service manual of your car for proper torque setting than to use the once I listed here. The ride quality is almost as good as the OEM quality. But the springs are a tiny bit more stiff (slightly thicker coils) than the OEM, causing slight roughness relative to the original equipment. But I am sure, the springs will settle under load and match OEM ride quality in a few months. Now some installation instructions: When doing the rear struts, remove the trunk capet and liner walls (grey capeted cardboard that lines the trunk) by pulling out the plastic screws that secure the liner to the metal frame of the car. I used a pair of needle nose pliers get behind the head of the plastic screw and squeeze it gently, while using a prying action. Jack-up your vehicle one side at at time and use jack stands to support the vehicle safely. Remove the lower mount bolt by using an impact wrentch or a breaker bar attached to a 17mm socket. Pre-spray penetrating oil repeatedly over a period of hours if the bolt refuses to come out. Remove the two top screws. Do not remove the top center bolt of the strut, unless you have a spring compressor -the spring is under great tensior and couls serioulsy injure you. Also, with this complete quick strut assembly, you have no reason to remove the center bolt from the old assembly -so just don't do it. While you have the old strut removed, compare it with the new one to orient the top mount in relation to the bottom mount. Rotate the top of the new assembly to match the old assembly -it is easily done, if one person grasps the spring coil and another person rotates the top. Tip: It helps to temporarily put the nut on the stud and use a closed (circular as opposed to the open) end of crescent wrench on one of the nuts and lock the wrench on the opposite stud to rotate the mount to the disired angle. Attach the bottom mount first. Have an assistnat step on the rear brake rotor to push it down while you slide the top mount studs into the holes in the trunk. You can also line one of the studs first into the trunk hole and use a metal bar or flat blade screw driver wrapped in soft material to tap the other stud into the remaining trunk hole for fine alignment. Use a torque wrench with appropriate torque to tighten the bolt. Mount the wheels back and make sure you align the wheels. I got my wheels aligned at Sears auto center.